We are a specialist block paving company working around Brentwood, Basildon, Wickford and Essex, dedicated to producing beautifully crafted and carefully executed work to individual clients' specifications and needs. We liaise closely with our customers in order to guarantee complete satisfaction and peace of mind. We do this by keeping our clients updated with ongoing progress as we continue our work.
No job is too big or too small and all our work carries our five year guarantee. Simply, we are small enough to care and big enough to cope. Our expertise of over fifteen years will ensure that each project is properly organised and efficiently completed to the highest possible standard. Proper preparation is perhaps the most essential part of any paving project.
We spend time ensuring that the ground is properly prepared in order to ensure a long-lasting and flawless finish. We use high quality materials which are durable and attractive. Borders and colour contrasts are our speciality, and multi-level work is no problem.
No job is too big or too small and all our work carries our five year guarantee. Simply, we are small enough to care and big enough to cope. Our expertise of over fifteen years will ensure that each project is properly organised and efficiently completed to the highest possible standard. Proper preparation is perhaps the most essential part of any paving project.
We spend time ensuring that the ground is properly prepared in order to ensure a long-lasting and flawless finish. We use high quality materials which are durable and attractive. Borders and colour contrasts are our speciality, and multi-level work is no problem.
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The key to constructing a good decking area is the frame.
If the decking is being built on an existing patio it should be built of sawn treated timber 50 mm by 100mm (approx.).
Before building the frame you need to decide which way the final decking boards are going to run and build the main joists of the frame in the opposite direction at approx 400mm centres.
The frame can either be built directly on to the patio or can be built using small brick pillars to increase the height.
If the brick pillar method is used then you should use a pillar every 1.25 metres along every second joist.
If the decking is being built on an existing patio it should be built of sawn treated timber 50 mm by 100mm (approx.).
Before building the frame you need to decide which way the final decking boards are going to run and build the main joists of the frame in the opposite direction at approx 400mm centres.
The frame can either be built directly on to the patio or can be built using small brick pillars to increase the height.
If the brick pillar method is used then you should use a pillar every 1.25 metres along every second joist.
Bear in mind that this project is hard work and you'll find it a lot easier if you have at least one helper.
Clear away vegetation and pot any shrubs or plants that you will want to replant once the fence is up.
Prefabricated fence panels come in a standard 1.83m width and are generally available in four heights (900mm, 1.2m, 1.52m and 1.83m).
1. Drill six evenly spaced pilot holes into the batten framing of the panel on both sides and at each end.
Raise the panel 50mm - 75mm above the ground, this gap will help prevent it rotting from the bottom up.
Clear away vegetation and pot any shrubs or plants that you will want to replant once the fence is up.
Prefabricated fence panels come in a standard 1.83m width and are generally available in four heights (900mm, 1.2m, 1.52m and 1.83m).
1. Drill six evenly spaced pilot holes into the batten framing of the panel on both sides and at each end.
Raise the panel 50mm - 75mm above the ground, this gap will help prevent it rotting from the bottom up.
Paving blocks are bedded into a layer of sharp sand on top of compressed Type 1 sub-base stone.
They aren't fixed with mortar, so there must be a retaining edge or kerb to stop them spreading.
These edging blocks are securely bedded on mortar.
Excavate a strip around all four edges of the sub-base and lay 100mm-thick concrete footings for the edging blocks.
The footings should project 75mm to the outside of the edging blocks and no more than 25mm to the inside.
When the concrete is dry, lay the edging blocks on a bed of mortar.
They aren't fixed with mortar, so there must be a retaining edge or kerb to stop them spreading.
These edging blocks are securely bedded on mortar.
Excavate a strip around all four edges of the sub-base and lay 100mm-thick concrete footings for the edging blocks.
The footings should project 75mm to the outside of the edging blocks and no more than 25mm to the inside.
When the concrete is dry, lay the edging blocks on a bed of mortar.
Firstly you should plan out your area and include a fall to ensure water will drain away.
We would suggest something like 1:40 cross fall and 1:80 end fall drainage.
Also take into account the thickness of the paving, sub base and bedding layer to ascertain how deep you need to dig out.
Remember that if you are laying paving up to a building then your finished top level needs to be at least 150mm below the DPC.
The sub base is the layer that takes the load and gives your paving strength and durability.
We would suggest something like 1:40 cross fall and 1:80 end fall drainage.
Also take into account the thickness of the paving, sub base and bedding layer to ascertain how deep you need to dig out.
Remember that if you are laying paving up to a building then your finished top level needs to be at least 150mm below the DPC.
The sub base is the layer that takes the load and gives your paving strength and durability.
A concrete edging stone is a mini kerb.
Whereas kerbs are used for roads, edgings are used for driveways and paths.
Usually, one edge has a rounded "bull nosed" edge which softens the look of the stone and also protects car tyres when used on a driveway.
This project deals with straight, concrete edging stones.
There are many types of edging stones for varying uses around the garden.
Some just sit in soil, some on a mortar bed and some need concreting.
The principle is the same.
Edging stones are used to stop the base spreading as weight is applied to it and as such must be laid in a strong mix of concrete themselves.
Whereas kerbs are used for roads, edgings are used for driveways and paths.
Usually, one edge has a rounded "bull nosed" edge which softens the look of the stone and also protects car tyres when used on a driveway.
This project deals with straight, concrete edging stones.
There are many types of edging stones for varying uses around the garden.
Some just sit in soil, some on a mortar bed and some need concreting.
The principle is the same.
Edging stones are used to stop the base spreading as weight is applied to it and as such must be laid in a strong mix of concrete themselves.
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